Author Archives: Adam Platt

Jean-Georges Updates the Menu and the Mood at His Once-Radical Restaurant JoJo

Source: Grub Street NY

Makeovers are always a delicate business, especially in a discreetly fraught neighborhood like the Upper East Side, but the questions surrounding the elaborate reboot of Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s original flagship restaurant, JoJo, are bound to be more delicate than most. How do you make a poky duplex townhouse space, …

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Thank You, Salt Bae

Source: Grub Street NY

The shiver of shark critics who inhabit the treacherous waters around this ancient restaurant city is notoriously hard on out-of-towners, although we usually tend to let our prey flail around for weeks, months, or sometimes even years. But the Turkish meat-salting meme sensation, Nusret Gökçe — a.k.a. Salt Bae — …

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Good Food Can Be Found at the Lobster Club, Once You Tune Out the Midtown Party Crowd

Source: Grub Street NY

Like the last volume of a madcap fantasy series, or a trio of glitzy, newly revived operas, the Lobster Club, which opened a few months ago in midtown, represents the third and final installment of what future restaurant historians may well call “the Seagram Saga.” As anyone who’s followed …

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At Midtown’s Glitzy New DaDong, the Signature Dish Is Overshadowed by the Spectacle

Source: Grub Street NY

It’s safe to say that grizzled New Yorkers who’ve subsisted over the decades on a steady diet of soup dumplings and warmed-over containers of carryout crispy orange beef have never seen anything quite like the eagerly awaited, elaborately hyped midtown Peking-duck palace DaDong. Instead of the usual cramped quarters out …

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13 Dining Trends We Don’t Want to See in 2018

Source: Grub Street NY

Now that we’ve established the essential agenda for eating (and drinking) in New York in 2018, let’s take a look at the restaurant gimmicks we hope to leave in 2017. 

Clickbait dishes.
Yes, they’re part of the jangled, intrusive, interconnected world we all live in, and yes, some of them …

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Where to Eat 2018

Source: Grub Street NY

“Where should I be eating these days?!” is the question your humble critic always hears this time of year, echoing incessantly from colleagues and family members and even from dimly known acquaintances, as I stagger down the winds­wept avenues on the way to my next meal. The answer, as always …

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The Absolute Best New Restaurants in New York

Source: Grub Street NY

For whatever reason, the annual, onerous critic’s chore of putting together a ‘best new restaurant’ list has been even more onerous than usual this year. Possibly it’s because many of our favorite restaurants (like Ignacio Mattos’s Flora Bar) opened late in 2016, and were hastily included in last …

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At the Aviary’s New York Hotel-Lobby Outpost, the Magic Is Confined to the Glass

Source: Grub Street NY

“Don’t worry, most people abandon it halfway through,” the impeccably mannered waitperson said with a practiced little bow. My guests and I were peering at Grant Achatz’s towering “Giant Crispy Pork Skin,” a creation that, like the Redwoods or the Taj Mahal, still manages to look impressive in real life, …

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Enjoying Life’s Finer Things, in the Back of a Hell’s Kitchen Grocery Store

Source: Grub Street NY

There are many reasons for a world-weary critic to put off visiting the new Manhattan version of the seminal Brooklyn tasting room, Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, for as long as possible. There’s the extravagant price (“$390 includes service, but not drinks,” the friendly voice on the end of telephone …

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The Pool Is Posh, Pricey, and a Little Prosaic

Source: Grub Street NY

“The Grill feels like a country club, and this feels like a cruise ship,” observed one of the diners in our party as we settled down to dinner at the Major Food Group’s latest Seagram Building production, the Pool. The cruise-ship analogy probably works best when you take all of …

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The Absolute Best Offal in New York

Source: Grub Street NY

Until recently, the consumption of animal guts was a guilty, off-the-menu pleasure, best done hidden from polite company. With the rise of the Nose-to-Tail Generation, however, those of us who enjoy consuming variety meats have never had it so good. Here are our absolute favorite places in the city for …

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The Loyal Is a Brand-new Brasserie That Already Feels Familiar

Source: Grub Street NY

“So where’s my foie gras?” murmured the offal-loving guest to my left, as our little party of eaters processed the first wave of appetizers to descend on our crowded little table at John Fraser’s new Bleecker Street brasserie, the Loyal. The dish in question is listed on the crowded, …

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Cote Offers Korean Barbecue With the Soul of a Fat-cat American Steakhouse

Source: Grub Street NY

Of all the radical, ingenious, occasionally desperate down-market maneuvers being attempted by highly talented, upmarket restaurateurs and chefs around the city, the one that Simon Kim and executive chef David Shim have executed at their new Flatiron restaurant, Cote, might be the most ingenious of all: They’ve created a …

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At Metta, Open-Flame Gaucho Cooking Meets Brooklyn Locavorism

Source: Grub Street NY

Like many of the polished little DIY dining establishments blooming all around the borough these days, Metta looks almost too much like a harried Manhattanite’s fantasy of what a twee, homegrown “New Brooklyn” restaurant is supposed to be. The tables in the cozy corner space on Adelphi Street, near …

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Ato in Soho Is a Delicious Surprise

Source: Grub Street NY

Unlike many of the elaborately appointed Japanese-themed tasting parlors, sushi joints, and kaiseki palaces that have been blooming up all around town during this era of what your weary critic has called “peak omakase, Ato, which opened with barely a whisper several months ago in a former bespoke-shirt …

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The Office Is a Curious, But Pleasant, New York Debut for Grant Achatz

Source: Grub Street NY

Not too long ago, ambitious out-of-town chefs announced their arrivals in New York with equally ambitious, circus-sized restaurants. But in this fractured era, as the cost of doing business in Manhattan rises, and the city’s influence as global culinary tastemaker slowly wanes, the fancy chefs tend to come tentatively, in …

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For Jean-Georges, Opening Two Restaurants at Once Yields Mixed Results

Source: Grub Street NY

With its roster of soul-­cleansing juices; its breakfast muffins with uplifting names like “Morning Glory”; and its clean, white, vaguely medicinal décor, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s much-praised new veggie palace abcV looks like it’s been almost willfully designed by the great chef to set off alarm bells deep in the heart …

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The New Version of the Four Seasons’ Grill Room Is Worth a Visit, If Someone Else Is Paying

Source: Grub Street NY

Monica Lewinsky isn’t exactly in the upper realm of the city’s celebrity-spotting pantheon these days, but on this summer evening at the Major Food Group‘s posh, clamorous, predictably over-the-top reboot of the old Four Seasons Grill Room, my guests are happy to see her. “This isn’t your grandfather’s …

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Has Power Lunch Returned to Midtown’s Storied Grill Room?

Source: Grub Street NY

“We’re in Henry’s booth, in case you didn’t know,” the longtime regular whispers, as we sit down to lunch in the famous dining room on the ground floor of the Seagram Building, with its cathedral ceilings, its polished wood walls, and waves of metal curtains shimmering on the tall windows. …

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The Vietnamese Cooking at Hanoi House Tastes Fresh, Homespun, and Inventive All at Once

Source: Grub Street NY

I haven’t been back to Vietnam for a few years now, but I imagine that the latest generation of noodle bars and soup shops that have grown up around Hanoi, and in the trendier sections of Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), look an awful lot like Ben Lowell and …

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Ichimura Raises Its Prices and Loses Some of Its Charm After Declaring Independence From Brushstroke

Source: Grub Street NY

Not so long ago, Eurocentric chefs, with their haughty accents and bags of elaborate magic tricks, used to dominate the highest, most ethereal levels of the city’s big-money dining scene. But these days, thanks to a new generation of globe-trotting gourmands who prefer the sinful joys of fatty tuna belly …

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Empellón’s New Fajitas Are Made With Super-High-Grade Japanese Beef — Are They Worth $125?

Source: Grub Street NY

Adjusting certain dishes to a new dining terroir can be a challenge for even the most ambitious and accomplished chef, but if anyone’s up to adapting the simple taco to the assorted expense account gourmands who prowl the glittering towers of midtown Manhattan, it’s Alex Stupak. That’s what I thought …

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The Absolute Best Sushi in New York

Source: Grub Street NY

In the high-end world of big-city dining, few restaurant genres evince more passion and contentious argument than the delicate, subjective, ever-changing realm of first-class sushi. This is especially true these days, when discreet tasting rooms and out-of-town chains seem to be popping up around this toro-mad town like so …

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The Absolute Best Prime Rib in New York

Source: Grub Street NY

For years, this most elemental and grandiose of all beef-eater pleasures was out of fashion in the city’s haute carnivore circles, but lately, it’s been making a comeback. It comes in all sorts of different varieties, but the elemental pleasures of blood, bone, and the lustrous top layers of deckle …

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