Author Archives: Julia Bainbridge

Ones to Watch: The new guard shaping Atlanta’s food scene in 2018

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Shannon Evans, of Studio No. 7; Eugene Cooke, of Truly Living Well and Grow Where You Are; and Yasmeen Salaam, of Carver’s ProducePhotographs by Ben RollinsView Original Post

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The Farmer: Eugene Cooke

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Eugene CookePhotograph by Ben Rollins A new generation of urban farmers is emerging in Atlanta, but Eugene Cooke has been at it for a while, first as a cofounder of Truly Living Well (TLW) and now with his social enterprise Grow Where You Are (GWYA). The big idea: “Keep your garden close,” he says, and you will stay healthy—physically and fiscally. Cooke manages three to five plots in the city, selling the produce at either farmers markets or directly to chefs (Restaurant Eugene and Empire State South are clients) or giving it back to the surrounding communities. “The right word ...

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The Chef: Parnass Savang

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Parnass SavangPhotograph by Ben Rollins Parnass Savang opened his pop-up, Talat Market, inside Candler Park restaurant Gato because he was weary of subpar Thai food. “Coconut milk from a can. Curry paste from a can. Even if it’s doctored up, it’s still missing that . . . love,” he says. Savang, who grew up around his family’s Lawrenceville restaurant, Danthai, graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in New York and then moved back to Atlanta, where he worked at Empire State South, Staplehouse, and Kimball House. Since April, he’s been serving his “Georgian Thai” food (local ingredients, Thai technique) ...

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The Entrepreneur: Zac Brown

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Zac BrownPhotograph by Ben Rollins Besides fronting his Grammy Award–winning eponymous band, Zac Brown is in the wine and restaurant businesses. His latest project, Zac Brown’s Social Club, a Southern restaurant and adjoining quick-service concession stand, will open in Philips Arena this year. But the real reason we’re watching him closely? Remedy Bakeshop, a line of gluten-free and allergen-friendly baked goods he’s developing with the help of Atlanta’s H&F Bread Co. and chemist Dr. Nicole Crane. (The chocolate chip cookies are especially good.) Part of the proceeds will go to Camp Southern Ground, Brown’s not-for-profit, 450-acre campground for military vets ...

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The Cocktail Mavens: Missy and Kristin Koefod

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Missy and Kristin KoefodPhotograph by Ben Rollins Missy and Kristin Koefod started selling bitters, tonics, shrubs, syrups—all sorts of ingredients to upgrade your cocktails at home—at Ponce City Market in September 2015. Since then, GQ, Vogue, and Vanity Fair have taken note of the married couple’s company, 18.21 Bitters. So when the Koefods announced that they would open a bar along the BeltLine, Atlanta drinkers paid special attention. Called the James Room and set to open this spring in a prime spot along the Eastside Trail’s extension, between Krog Street Market and Studioplex, it will offer coffee and pastries in ...

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The Mover and Shaker: Yasmeen Salaam

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Yasmeen SalaamPhotograph by Ben Rollins Yasmeen Salaam grew up in California with a grandmother who grew potatoes and raised chickens at home. When Salaam moved to Macon County, Alabama to study supply chain management at nearby Tuskegee University, “it dawned on me that I would have to travel 60 miles per week—that’s 30 miles going to Auburn and 30 miles back—just to get fresh produce,” she says. All those farms but hardly any fresh and local produce in the local Piggly Wiggly and Calhoun grocery stores. When she moved to Atlanta after graduation, Salaam ran into the same frustration, so ...

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The Entertainer: Shannon Evans

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Shannon EvansPhotograph by Ben Rollins “It was hard for me to make friends when I got to Atlanta,” says Shannon Evans, who settled here in 2015 after graduating from Howard Univer­sity, working at World Bank in Washington, D.C., and then traveling the world. But in just a few years, her event space Studio No. 7 has become one of the most Instagrammed spots on the Westside—especially that Brooklyn-esque brick-walled outdoor patio with lights strung up just so. Evans rents the space for events that range from an intimate bridal shower to a ticketed five-course vegan dinner to a 225-person corporate ...

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Home for Dinner: Mac Powell of Third Day

Source: Atlanta Magazine

“We wanted to show that love can go beyond the color of your skin,” says musician Mac Powell of the blended family he’s created with his wife, Aimee. The couple, who have three biological offspring—Scout, 18; Cash, 15; and Camie Love, 14—adopted two more children with the help of Bethany Christian Services. Emmanuel, eight, came first, and then in 2010, the need grew for good homes for children affected by the earthquake in Haiti. Along came Birdie Clare, seven. “We were blessed to receive the children that we did,” says Mac. Almost all of the Powells are seated around the ...

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He Ro had never seen an oyster. Now the refugee is Kimball House’s most talented shucker.

Source: Atlanta Magazine

He RoPhotograph by Andrew Thomas Lee At lunchtime, two days before Hurricane Irma’s 35-mile-per-hour winds would slam into Atlanta and leave 1.5 million Georgians without power, He Ro isn’t concerned about his apartment in Clarkston. “There’s not a lot to lose,” he says of his meager possessions, picking arugula leaves out of his chicken sandwich and eating them, one by one, before pecking at the rest. He’s less relaxed when the conversation turns to how Kimball House might fare in the storm. The Decatur restaurant is where the 24-year-old spends much of his time, shucking around 400 oysters per night ...

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Dishwasher Eden Vazquez is one of Atlanta’s unsung (and vital) kitchen workers

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Eden Vazquez works as a dishwasher at Star Provisions and Bacchanalia.Photograph by Fernando Decillis Without dishwashers, restaurants simply couldn’t operate. Bacchanalia pastry chef Carla Tomasko thinks it might even be the most vital position in the professional kitchen. Eden moved to Atlanta in 2004, and she’s been with us for six years now. Back in Mexico she was a stay-at-home mom, but living here is more expensive, so she needed a job. I was born in Ecuador, but I had cousins in Atlanta; Eden didn’t. She came to a different country with a different language and had to get accustomed ...

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Home for Dinner: Steve Osunsami, ABC News Correspondent

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Also at dinner with Osunsami (right): Joe Remillard (center), Ayn Remillard (left), and Marguerite Madden (bottom left). Not pictured: neighbors John West and Michael Lappin and friends Robin and Doctor Le’Roy Reese.Photograph by Raymond McCrea Jones Part of the reason that ABC News correspondent Steve Osunsami, 46, goes all out for Thanksgiving is because he can. The son of Nigerian immigrants, he grew up in Peoria, Illinois housing projects eating government cheese. “You know, it came in those big blocks?” His mother would cook on Sundays, but otherwise it was Shake ’N Bake chicken. “We were never able to do ...

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You should eat more turkey

Source: Atlanta Magazine

This is what one of Jenni Harris’s broad-breasted black turkeys looks like as a teenager.Photograph by Laura Mortelliti Eat more turkey. That may sound obvious, this being Thanksgiving month, but there are health benefits to varying your poultry routine throughout the year. “Turkey is just a really good, sustainable source of energy,” says chef David Sweeney, who is best known for his popular vegetable-forward cooking at his former restaurant, Dynamic Dish. “We should be eating turkey—and rabbit and duck, for that matter—year round.” Turkey could almost be considered a superfood: It’s packed with protein, low in fat, and contains iron, ...

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The Hotel Clermont’s forthcoming restaurant has a name: Tiny Lou’s

Source: Atlanta Magazine

From left: hotel director of restaurants Nick Hassiotis, chef Jeb Aldrich, and hotel general manager Alan Rae on the roof of the Hotel ClermontPhotograph by Heidi Geldhauser In July, we reported that Jeb Aldrich—formerly of Noble Fin and 4th and Swift—would be the executive chef at the Hotel Clermont’s forthcoming restaurant. That restaurant now has a name: Tiny Lou’s. “She was a dancer at the hotel’s Gypsy Room, which was there before the Clermont Lounge, in the 1950s,” says Aldrich. “According to Atlanta folklore, she was notorious for being ‘the girl who refused to dance with Hitler.’” Tiny Lou became ...

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Community Farmers Markets’ inaugural Red Clay Soirée has an impressive food lineup

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Community Farmers Markets—a nonprofit network that likely includes at least one of your favorite Atlanta farmers markets—is hosting its inaugural Red Clay Soirée fundraising gala on Friday, November 10. The list of participants reads like, well, a list of the people making much of the finest food and drink in the city right now. (Full disclosure: We’re also the official media sponsor for the event.) “We wanted to work with people who aren’t the big names like Hugh Acheson or [Staplehouse chef] Ryan Smith, but the rising stars,” says Katie Hayes, CFM’s executive director. “These are the people who are ...

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Taste oysters from all over the South this weekend—and help Georgia’s local industry

Source: Atlanta Magazine

At the Landlocked Oyster Fest and Benefit this Sunday, you can try oysters from 19 different farmers, 15 of whom produce in the Southeast. Georgia oyster farmers take up just two slots on that list—most come from the Carolinas, Alabama, and Florida—but that may change very soon. “In the next five to seven years, we want to help increase in-state growers to about 50,” says Tom Bliss, director of the University of Georgia’s Shellfish Research Laboratory in Savannah. Sunday’s event is the first of its kind put on by Oyster South, a nonprofit dedicated to encouraging oyster farming throughout the ...

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Friday Night at the Colonnade

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Server and host Randell StensonPhotograph by Caroline C. Kilgore “Bernadette, party of four,” Randell Stenson swings a matte black microphone closer to his lips. “Bernadette.” Stenson’s chipper but fluid voice has been ushering in diners at the Colonnade restaurant for about 30 years now. “Andrew, party of two, please.” Two middle-aged men in khaki shorts and button-down plaid shirts make their way to the wooden podium, playfully needling Stenson about something or other as he crosses “Andrew” off of the list of names running down his yellow legal pad. He gives up a modest smile. In the dining room, longtime customer ...

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Home for Dinner: Atlanta artist Joseph Guay and Terminus ballet co-founder Tara Lee

Source: Atlanta Magazine

See Guay’s latest work, the 10,000-pound “Border Wall,” on the corner of 10th Street and Howell Mill Road until December.Photograph by Raymond McCrea Jones Joseph Guay’s Brutalist-style concrete home sticks out in Kirkwood, a neighborhood replete with gabled cottages. “I wanted to make a giant sculpture that I could live in,” says the artist, 45, as he drops pasta into boiling water. “So I drew 60 versions on paper, and a friend who’s a builder got the plans approved,” he says matter-of-factly, now chopping zucchini and red peppers. Since Guay and his girlfriend, Tara Lee, met almost four years ago, ...

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Montane water is Atlanta’s local LaCroix

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Hollis Callaway also sells Montane at LottaFrutta, Inman Park’s Savi Provisions, and Dad’s Garage.Photograph by Ben Rollins Although it’s been around for decades, LaCroix sparkling water has only recently become the “it” beverage, part of a national trend away from soft drinks. In 2015 the U.S. saw its lowest rate of soda consumption in 30 years, and water sales continue to skyrocket. Now say hello to a local alternative to the alternative: Montane Sparkling Spring Water. It’s produced by 31-year-old Hollis Callaway, whose storied family—his great-grandfather Cason Callaway founded Callaway Gardens, and his great-uncle ran against Lester Maddox in one ...

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Cook like an American: Two new books address how we eat

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Two new cookbooks out this month, America the Great Cookbook: The Food We Make for the People We Love (Weldon Owen) and America: The Cookbook (Phaidon), address how Americans—and Georgians—eat. America the Great Cookbook Editor Joe Yonan, James Beard Award–winning food and dining editor of the Washington Post. Big idea One hundred of the country’s finest chefs and “food heroes,” as Yonan calls them, from prominent home cooks to farmers, contributed recipes. “An all-chef book doesn’t really represent the true scope of cooking that’s happening in America,” says the editor. “There’s so much incredible stuff happening in people’s home kitchens.” Motivation ...

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Gunter Seeger to cook in Atlanta for the first time in nearly a decade

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Gunter SeegerPhotograph courtesy of Gunter Seeger NYC Gunter Seeger polarized Atlanta diners from the mid-1980s until he left town in 2009, first at the Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton and then at his eponymous Seeger’s in Buckhead. Some said they had the best meal of their lives at Seeger’s; some couldn’t understand the steakhouse prices for chilly service and stripped down platings of razor clams with lemon zest or slabs of foie gras steamed inside fig leaves. “I often defended Seeger’s to readers, who found it stuffy and unsatisfying,” wrote former AJC critic John Kessler in 2015. “They also hated ...

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The subject of painter Kerry Escobedo’s portraits? Raw meat.

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Kerry Escobedo’s acrylic steak painting, 18×24″Photograph courtesy of Kerry Escobedo Meat is more than food to Decatur-based artist Kerry Escobedo. Each cut is a map of an animal’s life, deserving of portraiture. And it’s almost exclusively what she’s been painting for the past few years. “I guess it’s a little bit Native American, the idea of honoring this thing completely,” says Escobedo. “And there were a lot of things that went behind getting [the meat] to us. It’s the person who fed the animal. It’s the person who had to slaughter the animal.” After graduating from the University of Utah, ...

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Home for Dinner: Ford Fry, chef and mega-restaurateur

“People send me things to try out all the time,” says Ford Fry, 48, the closest thing Atlanta has to a restaurant magnate. “Usually that’s olive oils, vinegars, sea salts, or cuts of meat for Marcel.” Tonight Fry is testing a porterhouse steak so big it feeds three, and he’s serving it alongside field peas simmered in stock with lemon peels and onions. He swiped peaches, avocados, and tomatoes from JCT’s walk-in refrigerator to make a salad. (The benefits of having full-time access to a professional kitchen, eh?) Fry sears halibut for his wife, Stacy, who doesn’t eat red meat, but their sons Austin, 20, and Anders, 17, most definitely do. The chef may not actually be cooking at his restaurants anymore—he’s essentially the businessman…View Original Post

Michael W. Twitty: “I want Southern food to be the basis of a new discussion on shared Southern identity.”

Source: Atlanta Magazine

Michael W. TwittyPhotograph by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for New York Times Inspired in part by Roots author Alex Haley, culinary historian Michael W. Twitty takes a hard look at his own ancestry—both black and white—in his new book, The Cooking Gene. Through the lens of Southern food, he traces his roots from colonial rice farms and plantation kitchens to the black-owned organic farms of Georgia today. Twitty, who lives in Silver Spring, Maryland, was in Charlottesville, Virginia when we discussed the memoir, preparing for his speech at Monticello’s annual Heritage Harvest Festival. “I hate the fact that this town is ...

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