Category Archives: New York Magazine

A Vegan Food Encyclopedia for Curious Omnivores

Source: Grub Street NY

When Donald Watson, then secretary of London’s Vegetarian Society, coined the word vegan in 1944, to inspire a stricter stance against animal exploitation, it was unlikely that he had the slightest inkling of what that term would come to signify — in Silicon Valley, in the climate-change debate, in the …

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At Raviolo, Classic Italian Dishes Are Served Like Dim Sum

Source: Grub Street NY

For such outspoken sticklers for tradition, Italians have a little-known experimental streak. It’s on display at Mulino a Vino in Chelsea, whose opening chef Davide Scabin infused the menu with whimsies like cacio e pepe doughnuts. The restaurant’s owner, Paolo Meregalli, has expanded on the theme with a casual …

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The Pool Is Posh, Pricey, and a Little Prosaic

Source: Grub Street NY

“The Grill feels like a country club, and this feels like a cruise ship,” observed one of the diners in our party as we settled down to dinner at the Major Food Group’s latest Seagram Building production, the Pool. The cruise-ship analogy probably works best when you take all of …

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What 8 Notable Chefs Made for Their First Dinner Parties

Source: Grub Street NY

Matt & Emily Hyland, Chef-Owners, Emily and Emmy Squared

“We gave our first big dinner party in our small one-bedroom apartment in Downtown Brooklyn on Christmas Eve for our families. It was the first time they had relinquished the tradition. Mom, who lives in Greenwich, always liked to …

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The Truth About Vodka Sauce

Source: Grub Street NY

Besides fettuccine Alfredo, is there a dish reviled by pasta snobs as much as penne alla vodka? The other day, one of these detractors summed up the recipe for us as follows: Bring a large pot of water to a roiling boil, add salt, toss in penne, and cook until …

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How a Bangkok KFC Inspired One of the Most Interesting Dishes at Uncle Boons Sister

Source: Grub Street NY

Most of the dishes at Ann Redding and Matt Danzer’s brand-new fast-casual spot, Uncle Boons Sister, take their cues from traditional Thai street food. Not so the fried chicken larb. That one was inspired by KFC — a food-court KFC, no less, inside a Bangkok mall. “We were eating …

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John Fraser Is Opening a Gimmick-Free Brasserie in the West Village

Source: Grub Street NY

The inspirations for John Fraser’s new American brasserie, the Loyal, slated to open this Wednesday, are many: Blue Ribbon and Raoul’s (“because they’re timeless, and places you go to knock back a martini at five o’clock but also celebrate something at midnight when you get off of …

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At Metta, Open-Flame Gaucho Cooking Meets Brooklyn Locavorism

Source: Grub Street NY

Like many of the polished little DIY dining establishments blooming all around the borough these days, Metta looks almost too much like a harried Manhattanite’s fantasy of what a twee, homegrown “New Brooklyn” restaurant is supposed to be. The tables in the cozy corner space on Adelphi Street, near …

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Foie Gras Gets a Redesign at The Pool

Source: Grub Street NY

When is terrine of foie gras not terrine of foie gras? When it’s molded to resemble the Swiss cheese Tête de Moine, twice frozen, power-drilled down its center in order to fit onto the rustic cheese-slicing gizmo called a girolle, and shaved into dozens of razor-thin petals to form what …

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These Burgeoning Supermarkets Are a Mirror of Immigrant New York

Source: Grub Street NY

In a time when traditional supermarkets are on the wane, massive so-called ethnic stores like the Asian-focused H Mart and the eclectic Food Bazaar are on a tear, opening new branches around the city and the country (often in the vacant shells of defunct conventional grocery stores). These aren’t the …

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Ato in Soho Is a Delicious Surprise

Source: Grub Street NY

Unlike many of the elaborately appointed Japanese-themed tasting parlors, sushi joints, and kaiseki palaces that have been blooming up all around town during this era of what your weary critic has called “peak omakase, Ato, which opened with barely a whisper several months ago in a former bespoke-shirt …

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The Underground Gourmet Digest: The Best New Things to Eat Right Now, Ranked

Source: Grub Street NY

Once a month or so, the Underground Gourmet takes stock of all the excellent (and not so excellent) grub we’ve shoveled down our gullets to bring you this — our slightly random, completely subjective, 100 percent delicious top-ten new things to eat and drink.

1. Pancakes at Chez Ma …

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Empellón’s Fruit Plate Takes a Safe Dessert Choice to a Whole New Level

Source: Grub Street NY

“People don’t eat dessert all that much anymore,” says Empellón’s Alex Stupak. And when they do, they want … fruit plates. For an ambitious kitchen, this can be “soul-crushing.” Rather than give in entirely to the fruit-plate barbarians, Stupak and pastry chef Justin Binnie came up with a rather …

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An Old-world Tonic Gets a Fresh Spin at Brooklyn Bar Honey’s

Source: Grub Street NY

At most bars, nonalcoholic options run to fruity mocktails and ginger ale. At Honey’s in East Williamsburg, there’s kvass, the ancient Russian beverage and purported health tonic fermented from rye bread. While this Slavic staple might seem an odd thing to stumble across in the wilds of artisanal Brooklyn, it’s …

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For Jean-Georges, Opening Two Restaurants at Once Yields Mixed Results

Source: Grub Street NY

With its roster of soul-­cleansing juices; its breakfast muffins with uplifting names like “Morning Glory”; and its clean, white, vaguely medicinal décor, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s much-praised new veggie palace abcV looks like it’s been almost willfully designed by the great chef to set off alarm bells deep in the heart …

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57 Fall Restaurant Openings You Need to Know About

Source: Grub Street NY

After the summer doldrums, both appetites and restaurant openings rev up. The new season is jam-packed with Peking duck, Turkish steak, Japanese chains, neo-brasseries, and Brooklyn banchan. And because this is New York, there is lots of pizza on the horizon, plus an abbondonza of Italian food. Ahead, all that …

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Two International Superstar Chefs Are Opening Their First American Outposts This Fall

Source: Grub Street NY

How do the New York restaurants of Dong Zhenxiang and Nusret Gökçe, a.k.a. Salt Bae, compare?

120 W. 42nd St., nr. Sixth Ave. (October)

The chef: Dong Zhenxiang

Home base: Beijing, China

Empire: Ten branches of high-end DaDong in Beijing, four in Shanghai; two casual Taste of DaDongs in Beijing; …

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A Blue Hill Vet Is Bringing a Korean Banchan Restaurant to Williamsburg

Source: Grub Street NY

When Sunny Lee was 8 years old, she sat her parents down in their suburban-Boston home and made an announcement: “I’m going to be a chef.” Her Greek mother, whose specialty was toast, and her Korean father, who dabbled in soups, took the news in stride. But seven years later, …

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Italian Favorite Coco Pazzo Will Make a Comeback This Fall

Source: Grub Street NY

Chroniclers of Italian food in New York City know Pino Luongo as an ambitious, irascible O.G. of Tuscan cuisine, having risen from the lowly rank of Da Silvano busboy to helm such late-20th-century hot spots as Il Cantinori, Sapore di Mare, Le Madri, and Mad.61 before succumbing to ill-fated business …

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Mark Ladner’s Pasta Flyer Is Almost Ready to Take Off

Source: Grub Street NY

When Mark Ladner left his post as executive chef at Del Posto in January, a plate of pasta cost between $30 and $40. When he opens Pasta Flyer this fall, he’ll be charging $9.99 for a spaghetti-and-meatballs combo meal. And while you might be tempted to attribute this downscaling …

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19 New Bars for Every Type of Drinker, Opening This Fall

Source: Grub Street NY

Acoustik Garden (early September)
1515 Atlantic Ave., at Albany Ave., Bedford-Stuyvesant

The bar of summer was Diamond Reef; this fall brings another indoor-outdoor spot a few blocks east on Atlantic. Acoustik Garden, from event coordinator and former bartender Heather-Sky McField, will have live music — jazz, R&B, neo-soul, …

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The Via Carota Team Is Bringing More Italian Flair to Sheridan Square

Source: Grub Street NY

“Rita and I tend to create places we are longing for,” says chef Jody Williams, who opened the West Village’s Via Carota three years ago with partner Rita Sodi as an homage to Sodi’s onetime home outside Florence. The couple’s next collaboration, Pisellino, celebrates the classic Italian bar, an …

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Frenchette Will Be a Fresh Start for Two Former Keith McNally Chefs

Source: Grub Street NY

Frenchette” is a song off ex–New York Dolls singer David Johansen’s self-titled first solo album, which makes it an apt name for the first independent restaurant from Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, the co-chefs who spent 16 years opening instant hot spots Balthazar, Pastis, Schiller’s, and …

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This East Village Rice Noodle Shop Has Your New Hangover Cure

Source: Grub Street NY

Among the legacies of the Qin dynasty: popularizing mi fen, or rice noodles. Jacob Ding, owner of Yuan, a new East Village mi-fen restaurant, explains: The story goes that Qin soldiers, accustomed to abundant wheat in northern China, were dismayed to find that the South had little of the grain …

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