Category Archives: New York Magazine

14-hendus-sandwich.w1200.h630.jpg

Hendu’s Sandwich Shop at Dutch Kills Bar Makes Stupendously Good Heros

Source: Grub Street NY

Bar food keeps getting better and better, and the bars in which you find it more and more unexpected. Take, for instance, the Long Island City cocktail den Dutch Kills. That is the home of Hendu’s, a one-man sandwich shop that’s been operating out of the bar’s kitchen since …

Read full article >>

Atla Is a Mexican Restaurant Designed For How New Yorkers Eat Now

Source: Grub Street NY

“There’s no such thing as a perfect restaurant,” a dyspeptic old critic once admonished the Underground Gourmet, and, of course, she was right. So in acknowledgment of this fact, let’s start this review off by listing all the flaws and defects that prevent Enrique Olvera’s new Noho canteen, Atla, …

Read full article >>

Navigating New York’s New Wave of Asian Chain Restaurants

Source: Grub Street NY

A guide to the long lines, often-kooky concepts, and oodles of noodles.

Ikinari Steak
90 E. 10th St.

Low-budget beefsteak.

Established: Tokyo, 2013; over 100 branches in Japan.

Best known for: No seats: quick turnover (and presumably all that money saved on chair upkeep) equals discounted rib eyes, sirloins, …

Read full article >>

A Taxonomy of Italian Street Food, From Rice Balls to Spaghetti Cones

Source: Grub Street NY

Snacky Italian street food, both traditional and newfangled, is good, cheap, and on the rise. How to tell a trapizzino from a tramezzino and a panzerotto from a fried pizza.

Trapizzino

Invented in 2008 by a Roman pizzaiolo, this puffy square of pizza bianca is sliced into triangles that are …

Read full article >>

13 Places to Get Next-Level Soft-serve Ice Cream This Summer

Source: Grub Street NY

Is soft serve finally getting some respect? The World’s Best Pastry Chef (at least according to the publishers of the U.K.’s Restaurant magazine), Dominique Ansel, is a big fan. And so are the owners of the World’s Best Restaurant, Eleven Madison Park‘s Daniel Humm and Will Guidara. …

Read full article >>

Why You Should Think of Breakfast As Happy Hour

Source: Grub Street NY

When Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened abcV in February, he didn’t start by serving dinner. Neither did Anita Jaisinghani at Pondicheri, or Camille Becerra at De Maria, or Fredrik Berselius and Claus Meyer at Norman. All of those chefs began with lunch and, more surprisingly, breakfast, which used to …

Read full article >>

Why You Should Think of Breakfast as Happy Hour

Source: Grub Street NY

When Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened abcV in February, he didn’t start by serving dinner. Neither did Anita Jaisinghani at Pondicheri, or Camille Becerra at De Maria, or Fredrik Berselius and Claus Meyer at Norman. All of those chefs began with lunch and, more surprisingly, breakfast, which used to …

Read full article >>

16-diner1.w1200.h630.jpg

Watching and Lamenting the Death of the New York Diner

Source: Grub Street NY

There’s a story that a few of the wistful regulars from my old diner, Joe Jr.’s, which used to occupy a narrow little space in the Village on the southeast corner of Sixth Avenue and 12th Street, still like to tell about the time Louie the waiter died of …

Read full article >>

Is Hemp the Next Kale?

Source: Grub Street NY

There is something vaguely illicit about Andrew Whitcomb’s salad at Norman, the all-day canteen at Greenpoint co-workspace A/D/O. It’s not the soft, speckled heirloom lettuces, or the bitter chicories, or the dill oil in the buttermilk dressing, or the lemony sorrel that subs for citrus (just the sort …

Read full article >>

15-hanoi-house-1.w1200.h630.jpg

The Vietnamese Cooking at Hanoi House Tastes Fresh, Homespun, and Inventive All at Once

Source: Grub Street NY

I haven’t been back to Vietnam for a few years now, but I imagine that the latest generation of noodle bars and soup shops that have grown up around Hanoi, and in the trendier sections of Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), look an awful lot like Ben Lowell and …

Read full article >>

aroqa-lede.w1200.h630.jpg

aRoqa Brings Creative Indian Fusion to Chelsea

Source: Grub Street NY

Over the last decade, Delhi-born Gaurav Anand has brought Punjabi kebabs to Curry Hill at Bhatti Indian Grill, delivered Mughlai butter chicken to the Upper East Side at Moti Mahal Delux, and delved into sealed-lid dum pukht cookery at the Upper West Side’s Awadh. Now, at

Read full article >>

Greenwich Village Is Getting a Middle Eastern Dumpling Shop

Source: Grub Street NY

Melanie Shurka grew up on Long Island eating Israeli and Persian food based on recipes handed down from her grandmother, but she had never heard of kubeh, the Levantine dumplings made of semolina and bulgur wheat and served in broth. “I had an Israeli-Iraqi boyfriend when I was 16. He …

Read full article >>

The Hart’s Team Is Opening a Seafood-Heavy Portuguese Spot on the Lower East Side

Source: Grub Street NY

The Mediterranean coastline is diverse enough to inspire more than one kind of restaurant. And so less than a year after opening Hart’s in Bedford-Stuyvesant, partners Nialls Fallon and chef Nick Perkins will branch out into Manhattan with Cervo’s, slated to open in about a week and a …

Read full article >>

Could Sunchokes Be Your Next Vegetable Obsession?

Source: Grub Street NY

As wonderful and sexy as vegetables are now considered to be by the food cognoscenti, some are harder sells than others. Take, for instance, the sunchoke, a.k.a. Jerusalem artichoke. Gnarled and knotty and not much to look at, sunchokes possess a side effect that, despite their delicate flavor, has earned …

Read full article >>

Blue Hill’s Bone-Ash Cheese Is Now Available for Retail Sale

Source: Grub Street NY

Pound for pound — or, at a quarter-pound each, make that ounce for ounce — Saxelby Cheesemongers’ new Bone Char Pearl might be the poster cheese for this particular caseo-culinary moment. It’s got a chef collaborator (Blue Hill‘s Dan Barber, who commissioned it), a dedicated affineur (

Read full article >>

12-ug-top-ten.w1200.h630.jpg

The Underground Gourmet Digest: The Best New Things to Eat Right Now, Ranked

Source: Grub Street NY

1. Curry Cauliflower at Made Nice
8 W. 28th St., nr. Broadway; no phone

Many have tried to make healthy food fast, casual, and craveable, and many — make that most — have failed. Which is why we were gobsmacked by a visit to Daniel Humm’s new quick-service joint. …

Read full article >>

12-the-dish.w1200.h630.jpg

Daily Provisions Will Be Serving This Custom-Churned Rye Ice Cream This Summer

Source: Grub Street NY

Has there ever been a more New York ice cream than the one Portland, Oregon’s Salt & Straw has custom-churned for Daily Provisions, Danny Meyer’s new bakery and canteen? The rye flavor comes from bread that’s been crumbed and steeped; swirled strawberry jam and liquid poppy-seed …

Read full article >>

How the Shishito Conquered New York

Source: Grub Street NY

One recent evening, as we sat in the Tapas Bar at La Sirena, we pondered the surprising journey of the shishito pepper in New York — from somewhat obscure Japanese bar snack first cited in the Times in the 1990s, to tapas-bar sensation in the aughts, to, just …

Read full article >>

Ichimura Raises Its Prices and Loses Some of Its Charm After Declaring Independence From Brushstroke

Source: Grub Street NY

Not so long ago, Eurocentric chefs, with their haughty accents and bags of elaborate magic tricks, used to dominate the highest, most ethereal levels of the city’s big-money dining scene. But these days, thanks to a new generation of globe-trotting gourmands who prefer the sinful joys of fatty tuna belly …

Read full article >>

Mimi Sheraton’s Favorite Neighborhood Restaurant, Good, Is Closing

Source: Grub Street NY

Over a lifetime of professional eating, I’ve seen more than a few favorite restaurants shut their doors. But never has news of an imminent closing hit harder than that of Good, the delightful West Village standby around the corner from my house that has functioned, by virtue of …

Read full article >>

Atla’s Fish Milanese Is a Sleeper Sensation

Source: Grub Street NY

One thing Enrique Olvera and Daniela Soto-Innes have been particularly vocal about regarding their new Mexican-inspired café, Atla, is that it’s not intended to be a destination restaurant but a neighborhood joint. The problem with this plan is that the chefs have created a menu full of dishes …

Read full article >>

A Look at the Grill at the Former Four Seasons, Opening May 2

Source: Grub Street NY

Venison Cumberland. Spring Chicken à la Queen. Lobster à la Newberg. Filet mignon Florentine. Avocado crab Louis. Must be some recipes from an old Charles Ranhofer cookbook. Or maybe it’s an early edition of The Joy of Cooking. No, wait, it’s the new menu from the Grill, Major …

Read full article >>

Two Café Altro Paradiso Vets Bring Chez Ma Tante to Brooklyn

Source: Grub Street NY

Chefs Aidan O’Neal and Jake Leiber cooked for the likes of Hugue Dufour and Jonathan Waxman, respectively, before working together in the kitchen of Café Altro Paradiso. Now they’ve teamed up with Brooklyn restaurateur Josh Cohen to remake Cohen’s former Jimmy’s Diner into Chez Ma Tante, which opens …

Read full article >>

Two Great New Noodle Shops Shine a Light on the Seldom-Seen Yunnanese Rice Variety

Source: Grub Street NY

New York’s noodle slurpers have long descended on the East Village block of First Avenue between 10th and 11th Streets, where any night of the week, you’ll see them pacing the sidewalk outside David Chang’s pioneering Momofuku Noodle Bar. These folks have been joined, recently, by starchy-food aficionados …

Read full article >>

4 Charles Prime Rib Is a Hidden Supper Club for Deep-Pocketed Carnivores

Source: Grub Street NY

Dude Cave is the not-altogether-flattering term an acquaintance of mine uses to describe a certain style of small, male-oriented dining establishment that has been blooming up around town lately, during the Age of Trump. These carefully curated, hothouse boutique restaurants tend to foster a kind of clubby, anonymous style. The …

Read full article >>