Category Archives: New York Magazine

Is Trump to Blame for the West Village’s Tortellini Shortage?

Source: Grub Street NY

This has been a turbulent time for connoisseurs of stuffed pasta. For months, they’ve been deprived of the reassuring presence and superb handiwork of Caterina Schenardi, the 70-year-old Bologna native and mother of Massimo Galeano, who runs Gradisca trattoria on West 13th Street. Fifteen years ago, Schenardi came …

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Yunnan’s Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles Land on Eighth Street in Greenwich Village

Source: Grub Street NY

When Side Geng opened Yun Nan Flavour Snack in Sunset Park in 2006 (he has since expanded to the larger Yun Nan Flavour Garden), the cooking of China’s southwesternmost province was a bit of a novelty. But with the advent of places like Little Tong and (the late) …

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At Midtown’s Glitzy New DaDong, the Signature Dish Is Overshadowed by the Spectacle

Source: Grub Street NY

It’s safe to say that grizzled New Yorkers who’ve subsisted over the decades on a steady diet of soup dumplings and warmed-over containers of carryout crispy orange beef have never seen anything quite like the eagerly awaited, elaborately hyped midtown Peking-duck palace DaDong. Instead of the usual cramped quarters out …

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13 Dining Trends We Don’t Want to See in 2018

Source: Grub Street NY

Now that we’ve established the essential agenda for eating (and drinking) in New York in 2018, let’s take a look at the restaurant gimmicks we hope to leave in 2017. 

Clickbait dishes.
Yes, they’re part of the jangled, intrusive, interconnected world we all live in, and yes, some of them …

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Where to Eat 2018

Source: Grub Street NY

“Where should I be eating these days?!” is the question your humble critic always hears this time of year, echoing incessantly from colleagues and family members and even from dimly known acquaintances, as I stagger down the winds­wept avenues on the way to my next meal. The answer, as always …

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Celestine’s Braised Rabbit Kugel Is a Refined Take on a Jewish Classic

Source: Grub Street NY

Some people look at noodle kugel and see an Ashkenazi-Jewish artifact, derived from the round dumpling historically steamed inside the Sabbath stew cholent, that evolved over time and migration into the egg-and-dairy-enriched pudding we know today. But Celestine chef Garett McMahan sees a pasta-course vehicle for some of his …

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Kenji Dreams of Sausage

Source: Grub Street NY

This past spring the cook and food writer J. Kenji López-Alt took the stage at Italy’s Teatro Scientifico del Bibiena, in the small city of Mantua, with sacrilege on the brain. López-Alt, known to his devotees simply as Kenji, is a soft-spoken 38-year-old partial to sandals and backyard woodworking, but …

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Chez Ma Tante Serves Simple, Honest, Gobsmackingly Good Food

Source: Grub Street NY

At first glance, nothing about Chez Ma Tante tells you what to expect: not the French name, swiped from a Montreal hot-dog shack (it means “my aunt’s house”). Not the location on a sleepy residential Greenpoint block. Not the spare corner space, with its plain white walls and bare …

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Milk and Dark Are Only the Beginning

Source: Grub Street NY

What makes a simple chocolate bar a great gift? The stealth addition of olive oil, banana pulp, or halvah, for starters. Here, five unique options for jaded chocoholics.

The Cinephile Snack
Obsessive Chocolate Disorder‘s Caramelized Popcorn Bar

Chocolatier Sebastian Brecht’s swervy, lumpy slab is perfect for anyone whose routine movie …

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The Trick to Ugly Baby’s Addictive Deep-Fried Sea Bream

Source: Grub Street NY

Ugly Baby, a new Thai restaurant in Carroll Gardens, has quickly gained a reputation among the chile-pepper cognoscenti for serving food that is off-the-Scoville-charts hot. But not every dish on the menu is designed to blow the top of your head off. Take, for instance, this deep-fried whole …

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Fausto Opens in Old Franny’s Space This Week

Source: Grub Street NY

Restaurateur-sommelier Joe Campanale and chef Erin Shambura, both late of L’Artusi, had been searching earlier this year for the perfect Brooklyn location to open their own place. Then came the call from Francine Stephens, with the shocker that she and her husband, Andrew Feinberg, would be closing local landmark …

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Michael White Protégé Wants to Change the Way You Think About Shrimp Scampi

Source: Grub Street NY

For Italians, scampi refers to the little lobsters also known as langoustines or Dublin Bay prawns. For Italian-Americans, it’s the garlicky shrimp dish cooked in olive oil and white wine. For chef PJ Calapa, a veteran of Michael White’s haute-Italian empire, it’s the name of the now-closed southern-Texas restaurant where …

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At the Aviary’s New York Hotel-Lobby Outpost, the Magic Is Confined to the Glass

Source: Grub Street NY

“Don’t worry, most people abandon it halfway through,” the impeccably mannered waitperson said with a practiced little bow. My guests and I were peering at Grant Achatz’s towering “Giant Crispy Pork Skin,” a creation that, like the Redwoods or the Taj Mahal, still manages to look impressive in real life, …

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A Vegan Food Encyclopedia for Curious Omnivores

Source: Grub Street NY

When Donald Watson, then secretary of London’s Vegetarian Society, coined the word vegan in 1944, to inspire a stricter stance against animal exploitation, it was unlikely that he had the slightest inkling of what that term would come to signify — in Silicon Valley, in the climate-change debate, in the …

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At Raviolo, Classic Italian Dishes Are Served Like Dim Sum

Source: Grub Street NY

For such outspoken sticklers for tradition, Italians have a little-known experimental streak. It’s on display at Mulino a Vino in Chelsea, whose opening chef Davide Scabin infused the menu with whimsies like cacio e pepe doughnuts. The restaurant’s owner, Paolo Meregalli, has expanded on the theme with a casual …

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The Pool Is Posh, Pricey, and a Little Prosaic

Source: Grub Street NY

“The Grill feels like a country club, and this feels like a cruise ship,” observed one of the diners in our party as we settled down to dinner at the Major Food Group’s latest Seagram Building production, the Pool. The cruise-ship analogy probably works best when you take all of …

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What 8 Notable Chefs Made for Their First Dinner Parties

Source: Grub Street NY

Matt & Emily Hyland, Chef-Owners, Emily and Emmy Squared

“We gave our first big dinner party in our small one-bedroom apartment in Downtown Brooklyn on Christmas Eve for our families. It was the first time they had relinquished the tradition. Mom, who lives in Greenwich, always liked to …

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The Truth About Vodka Sauce

Source: Grub Street NY

Besides fettuccine Alfredo, is there a dish reviled by pasta snobs as much as penne alla vodka? The other day, one of these detractors summed up the recipe for us as follows: Bring a large pot of water to a roiling boil, add salt, toss in penne, and cook until …

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How a Bangkok KFC Inspired One of the Most Interesting Dishes at Uncle Boons Sister

Source: Grub Street NY

Most of the dishes at Ann Redding and Matt Danzer’s brand-new fast-casual spot, Uncle Boons Sister, take their cues from traditional Thai street food. Not so the fried chicken larb. That one was inspired by KFC — a food-court KFC, no less, inside a Bangkok mall. “We were eating …

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John Fraser Is Opening a Gimmick-Free Brasserie in the West Village

Source: Grub Street NY

The inspirations for John Fraser’s new American brasserie, the Loyal, slated to open this Wednesday, are many: Blue Ribbon and Raoul’s (“because they’re timeless, and places you go to knock back a martini at five o’clock but also celebrate something at midnight when you get off of …

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At Metta, Open-Flame Gaucho Cooking Meets Brooklyn Locavorism

Source: Grub Street NY

Like many of the polished little DIY dining establishments blooming all around the borough these days, Metta looks almost too much like a harried Manhattanite’s fantasy of what a twee, homegrown “New Brooklyn” restaurant is supposed to be. The tables in the cozy corner space on Adelphi Street, near …

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Foie Gras Gets a Redesign at The Pool

Source: Grub Street NY

When is terrine of foie gras not terrine of foie gras? When it’s molded to resemble the Swiss cheese Tête de Moine, twice frozen, power-drilled down its center in order to fit onto the rustic cheese-slicing gizmo called a girolle, and shaved into dozens of razor-thin petals to form what …

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These Burgeoning Supermarkets Are a Mirror of Immigrant New York

Source: Grub Street NY

In a time when traditional supermarkets are on the wane, massive so-called ethnic stores like the Asian-focused H Mart and the eclectic Food Bazaar are on a tear, opening new branches around the city and the country (often in the vacant shells of defunct conventional grocery stores). These aren’t the …

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Ato in Soho Is a Delicious Surprise

Source: Grub Street NY

Unlike many of the elaborately appointed Japanese-themed tasting parlors, sushi joints, and kaiseki palaces that have been blooming up all around town during this era of what your weary critic has called “peak omakase, Ato, which opened with barely a whisper several months ago in a former bespoke-shirt …

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The Underground Gourmet Digest: The Best New Things to Eat Right Now, Ranked

Source: Grub Street NY

Once a month or so, the Underground Gourmet takes stock of all the excellent (and not so excellent) grub we’ve shoveled down our gullets to bring you this — our slightly random, completely subjective, 100 percent delicious top-ten new things to eat and drink.

1. Pancakes at Chez Ma …

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