Category Archives: New York Magazine

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Foie Gras Gets a Redesign at The Pool

Source: Grub Street NY

When is terrine of foie gras not terrine of foie gras? When it’s molded to resemble the Swiss cheese Tête de Moine, twice frozen, power-drilled down its center in order to fit onto the rustic cheese-slicing gizmo called a girolle, and shaved into dozens of razor-thin petals to form what …

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These Burgeoning Supermarkets Are a Mirror of Immigrant New York

Source: Grub Street NY

In a time when traditional supermarkets are on the wane, massive so-called ethnic stores like the Asian-focused H Mart and the eclectic Food Bazaar are on a tear, opening new branches around the city and the country (often in the vacant shells of defunct conventional grocery stores). These aren’t the …

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Ato in Soho Is a Delicious Surprise

Source: Grub Street NY

Unlike many of the elaborately appointed Japanese-themed tasting parlors, sushi joints, and kaiseki palaces that have been blooming up all around town during this era of what your weary critic has called “peak omakase, Ato, which opened with barely a whisper several months ago in a former bespoke-shirt …

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The Underground Gourmet Digest: The Best New Things to Eat Right Now, Ranked

Source: Grub Street NY

Once a month or so, the Underground Gourmet takes stock of all the excellent (and not so excellent) grub we’ve shoveled down our gullets to bring you this — our slightly random, completely subjective, 100 percent delicious top-ten new things to eat and drink.

1. Pancakes at Chez Ma …

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Empellón’s Fruit Plate Takes a Safe Dessert Choice to a Whole New Level

Source: Grub Street NY

“People don’t eat dessert all that much anymore,” says Empellón’s Alex Stupak. And when they do, they want … fruit plates. For an ambitious kitchen, this can be “soul-crushing.” Rather than give in entirely to the fruit-plate barbarians, Stupak and pastry chef Justin Binnie came up with a rather …

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An Old-world Tonic Gets a Fresh Spin at Brooklyn Bar Honey’s

Source: Grub Street NY

At most bars, nonalcoholic options run to fruity mocktails and ginger ale. At Honey’s in East Williamsburg, there’s kvass, the ancient Russian beverage and purported health tonic fermented from rye bread. While this Slavic staple might seem an odd thing to stumble across in the wilds of artisanal Brooklyn, it’s …

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For Jean-Georges, Opening Two Restaurants at Once Yields Mixed Results

Source: Grub Street NY

With its roster of soul-­cleansing juices; its breakfast muffins with uplifting names like “Morning Glory”; and its clean, white, vaguely medicinal décor, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s much-praised new veggie palace abcV looks like it’s been almost willfully designed by the great chef to set off alarm bells deep in the heart …

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57 Fall Restaurant Openings You Need to Know About

Source: Grub Street NY

After the summer doldrums, both appetites and restaurant openings rev up. The new season is jam-packed with Peking duck, Turkish steak, Japanese chains, neo-brasseries, and Brooklyn banchan. And because this is New York, there is lots of pizza on the horizon, plus an abbondonza of Italian food. Ahead, all that …

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Two International Superstar Chefs Are Opening Their First American Outposts This Fall

Source: Grub Street NY

How do the New York restaurants of Dong Zhenxiang and Nusret Gökçe, a.k.a. Salt Bae, compare?

120 W. 42nd St., nr. Sixth Ave. (October)

The chef: Dong Zhenxiang

Home base: Beijing, China

Empire: Ten branches of high-end DaDong in Beijing, four in Shanghai; two casual Taste of DaDongs in Beijing; …

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A Blue Hill Vet Is Bringing a Korean Banchan Restaurant to Williamsburg

Source: Grub Street NY

When Sunny Lee was 8 years old, she sat her parents down in their suburban-Boston home and made an announcement: “I’m going to be a chef.” Her Greek mother, whose specialty was toast, and her Korean father, who dabbled in soups, took the news in stride. But seven years later, …

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Italian Favorite Coco Pazzo Will Make a Comeback This Fall

Source: Grub Street NY

Chroniclers of Italian food in New York City know Pino Luongo as an ambitious, irascible O.G. of Tuscan cuisine, having risen from the lowly rank of Da Silvano busboy to helm such late-20th-century hot spots as Il Cantinori, Sapore di Mare, Le Madri, and Mad.61 before succumbing to ill-fated business …

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Mark Ladner’s Pasta Flyer Is Almost Ready to Take Off

Source: Grub Street NY

When Mark Ladner left his post as executive chef at Del Posto in January, a plate of pasta cost between $30 and $40. When he opens Pasta Flyer this fall, he’ll be charging $9.99 for a spaghetti-and-meatballs combo meal. And while you might be tempted to attribute this downscaling …

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19 New Bars for Every Type of Drinker, Opening This Fall

Source: Grub Street NY

Acoustik Garden (early September)
1515 Atlantic Ave., at Albany Ave., Bedford-Stuyvesant

The bar of summer was Diamond Reef; this fall brings another indoor-outdoor spot a few blocks east on Atlantic. Acoustik Garden, from event coordinator and former bartender Heather-Sky McField, will have live music — jazz, R&B, neo-soul, …

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The Via Carota Team Is Bringing More Italian Flair to Sheridan Square

Source: Grub Street NY

“Rita and I tend to create places we are longing for,” says chef Jody Williams, who opened the West Village’s Via Carota three years ago with partner Rita Sodi as an homage to Sodi’s onetime home outside Florence. The couple’s next collaboration, Pisellino, celebrates the classic Italian bar, an …

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Frenchette Will Be a Fresh Start for Two Former Keith McNally Chefs

Source: Grub Street NY

Frenchette” is a song off ex–New York Dolls singer David Johansen’s self-titled first solo album, which makes it an apt name for the first independent restaurant from Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, the co-chefs who spent 16 years opening instant hot spots Balthazar, Pastis, Schiller’s, and …

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This East Village Rice Noodle Shop Has Your New Hangover Cure

Source: Grub Street NY

Among the legacies of the Qin dynasty: popularizing mi fen, or rice noodles. Jacob Ding, owner of Yuan, a new East Village mi-fen restaurant, explains: The story goes that Qin soldiers, accustomed to abundant wheat in northern China, were dismayed to find that the South had little of the grain …

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The New Version of the Four Seasons’ Grill Room Is Worth a Visit, If Someone Else Is Paying

Source: Grub Street NY

Monica Lewinsky isn’t exactly in the upper realm of the city’s celebrity-spotting pantheon these days, but on this summer evening at the Major Food Group‘s posh, clamorous, predictably over-the-top reboot of the old Four Seasons Grill Room, my guests are happy to see her. “This isn’t your grandfather’s …

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Public Kitchen’s Popcorn-Cheddar Frico Is a Genius Bit of Fusion Snack Food

Source: Grub Street NY

Thomas McKenna had never had a frico, the Friulian specialty of fried Montasio cheese, before he put one on the menu at Public Kitchen, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new restaurant at the Lower East Side’s Public Hotel. But he knew the precise texture and flavor he was going for: that addictive …

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How Top Chefs Are Reinventing the Hash Brown

Source: Grub Street NY

Inspired by nostalgia for diner and steakhouse versions, not to mention Mickey D’s, some of today’s top chefs are reconceiving the classic shredded-potato side dish.

Classic Hash Browns
A&E Supply Co.
$7; 548 Fourth Ave., Gowanus

“I grew up loving McDonald’s,” says Adam Harvey, the chef-owner of butcher-shopstaurant …

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Hendu’s Sandwich Shop at Dutch Kills Bar Makes Stupendously Good Heros

Source: Grub Street NY

Bar food keeps getting better and better, and the bars in which you find it more and more unexpected. Take, for instance, the Long Island City cocktail den Dutch Kills. That is the home of Hendu’s, a one-man sandwich shop that’s been operating out of the bar’s kitchen since …

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Atla Is a Mexican Restaurant Designed For How New Yorkers Eat Now

Source: Grub Street NY

“There’s no such thing as a perfect restaurant,” a dyspeptic old critic once admonished the Underground Gourmet, and, of course, she was right. So in acknowledgment of this fact, let’s start this review off by listing all the flaws and defects that prevent Enrique Olvera’s new Noho canteen, Atla, …

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Navigating New York’s New Wave of Asian Chain Restaurants

Source: Grub Street NY

A guide to the long lines, often-kooky concepts, and oodles of noodles.

Ikinari Steak
90 E. 10th St.

Low-budget beefsteak.

Established: Tokyo, 2013; over 100 branches in Japan.

Best known for: No seats: quick turnover (and presumably all that money saved on chair upkeep) equals discounted rib eyes, sirloins, …

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A Taxonomy of Italian Street Food, From Rice Balls to Spaghetti Cones

Source: Grub Street NY

Snacky Italian street food, both traditional and newfangled, is good, cheap, and on the rise. How to tell a trapizzino from a tramezzino and a panzerotto from a fried pizza.

Trapizzino

Invented in 2008 by a Roman pizzaiolo, this puffy square of pizza bianca is sliced into triangles that are …

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13 Places to Get Next-Level Soft-serve Ice Cream This Summer

Source: Grub Street NY

Is soft serve finally getting some respect? The World’s Best Pastry Chef (at least according to the publishers of the U.K.’s Restaurant magazine), Dominique Ansel, is a big fan. And so are the owners of the World’s Best Restaurant, Eleven Madison Park‘s Daniel Humm and Will Guidara. …

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