Tag Archives: Restaurant Review

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At Metta, Open-Flame Gaucho Cooking Meets Brooklyn Locavorism

Source: Grub Street NY

Like many of the polished little DIY dining establishments blooming all around the borough these days, Metta looks almost too much like a harried Manhattanite’s fantasy of what a twee, homegrown “New Brooklyn” restaurant is supposed to be. The tables in the cozy corner space on Adelphi Street, near …

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Ato in Soho Is a Delicious Surprise

Source: Grub Street NY

Unlike many of the elaborately appointed Japanese-themed tasting parlors, sushi joints, and kaiseki palaces that have been blooming up all around town during this era of what your weary critic has called “peak omakase, Ato, which opened with barely a whisper several months ago in a former bespoke-shirt …

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For Jean-Georges, Opening Two Restaurants at Once Yields Mixed Results

Source: Grub Street NY

With its roster of soul-­cleansing juices; its breakfast muffins with uplifting names like “Morning Glory”; and its clean, white, vaguely medicinal décor, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s much-praised new veggie palace abcV looks like it’s been almost willfully designed by the great chef to set off alarm bells deep in the heart …

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The New Version of the Four Seasons’ Grill Room Is Worth a Visit, If Someone Else Is Paying

Source: Grub Street NY

Monica Lewinsky isn’t exactly in the upper realm of the city’s celebrity-spotting pantheon these days, but on this summer evening at the Major Food Group‘s posh, clamorous, predictably over-the-top reboot of the old Four Seasons Grill Room, my guests are happy to see her. “This isn’t your grandfather’s …

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Atla Is a Mexican Restaurant Designed For How New Yorkers Eat Now

Source: Grub Street NY

“There’s no such thing as a perfect restaurant,” a dyspeptic old critic once admonished the Underground Gourmet, and, of course, she was right. So in acknowledgment of this fact, let’s start this review off by listing all the flaws and defects that prevent Enrique Olvera’s new Noho canteen, Atla, …

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The Vietnamese Cooking at Hanoi House Tastes Fresh, Homespun, and Inventive All at Once

Source: Grub Street NY

I haven’t been back to Vietnam for a few years now, but I imagine that the latest generation of noodle bars and soup shops that have grown up around Hanoi, and in the trendier sections of Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), look an awful lot like Ben Lowell and …

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Ichimura Raises Its Prices and Loses Some of Its Charm After Declaring Independence From Brushstroke

Source: Grub Street NY

Not so long ago, Eurocentric chefs, with their haughty accents and bags of elaborate magic tricks, used to dominate the highest, most ethereal levels of the city’s big-money dining scene. But these days, thanks to a new generation of globe-trotting gourmands who prefer the sinful joys of fatty tuna belly …

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4 Charles Prime Rib Is a Hidden Supper Club for Deep-Pocketed Carnivores

Source: Grub Street NY

Dude Cave is the not-altogether-flattering term an acquaintance of mine uses to describe a certain style of small, male-oriented dining establishment that has been blooming up around town lately, during the Age of Trump. These carefully curated, hothouse boutique restaurants tend to foster a kind of clubby, anonymous style. The …

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Italienne Succeeds Most When It Keeps Things Simple

Source: Grub Street NY

At first glance, there’s not much about the deceptively sophisticated dining operation Italienne to distinguish it from the great rabble of nouveau Italianate joints that seem to open around this pasta-saturated town on an almost hourly basis. There’s the slightly bland, lost-in-translation name (French for “Italian”), …

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Danny Meyer’s Union Square Cafe Takes Two

Source: Grub Street NY

“Hey, you guys are at my table,” one of the grand publishing executives quipped a couple of weeks back as my guests and I sat down to dinner at Danny Meyer’s much-anticipated reboot of Union Square Cafe, which opened not long ago in unnervingly spacious new …

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Not Built For Love: 24 Reviewed

Source: Philadelphia Magazine » Foobooz

Photo courtesy Ted Nghiem

On the floor at 24, the servers moved like they were on rails, following paths just a couple months old but already worn into the floor. They worked with pass-coverage eyes—heads up, eyes on their zones—and they were quick with the water-pour, the plate-clear, touching each of their tables, huddling on the kitchen’s open line and then rolling back out again, laden with plates.

On the tables, no cutesiness. The silverware all matched. The glassware was all polished, simple, plain. The plates were white. Each thing was designed for its purpose, including the (almost winking) ...

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At White Gold, April Bloomfield’s Butcher-Shop-Restaurant, It’s All About the Meat

Source: Grub Street NY

If you are even a halfway ambitious chef these days, it’s not enough to cook food and sell it. You must mill your own flour, grow your own herbs, churn your own butter, apply your own tattoos (well, maybe not that), and butcher your own meat. April Bloomfield is a …

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L.A. Import Sugarfish Wants to Democratize the Fine Art of Omakase

Source: Grub Street NY

The first time I attempted to secure an evening table at the new Flatiron outpost of the famous L.A. sushi destination Sugarfish (or a spot at the small, eight-seat bar, or even a seat on one of the backless couches in the dim, perpetually overrun waiting alcove), the …

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Dan Kluger Steps Out of Jean-Georges’s Shadow at Loring Place

Source: Grub Street NY

If it’s true, as I’ve observed before, that the world of cooks and restaurateurs can be divided, the way the philosopher Isaiah Berlin famously did with writers and thinkers, into “hedgehogs” (those deliberate souls who know one thing well) and “foxes” (those restless, artful Mozarts who know many things), then …

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At Loring Place, Dan Kluger Steps Out of Jean-Georges’s Shadow

Source: Grub Street NY

If it’s true, as I’ve observed before, that the world of cooks and restaurateurs can be divided, the way the philosopher Isaiah Berlin famously did with writers and thinkers, into “hedgehogs” (those deliberate souls who know one thing well) and “foxes” (those restless, artful Mozarts who know many things), then …

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Flora Bar Is More Formal and Ambitious Than Estela, but Just As Satisfying

Source: Grub Street NY

In the increasingly fraught, expensive world of New York City restaurants, the cost of everything keeps going up, including, it seems, success. Chefs and restaurateurs who are lucky enough to capture some sliver of the elusive, increasingly fractured popular Zeitgeist the way Ignacio Mattos did not long ago …

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At Atoboy and Edda Bar, Two Smart Young Chefs Bring Their Food to a Wider Audience

Source: Grub Street NY

Sometimes at restaurants, as in life, the best things are free. Take, for instance, bread — not always free these days, but occasionally great. We’re also reminded of the ­attention-grabbing amuse bouche. Or the miniature sweet some restaurants give you in lieu of dessert. And then there’s the Italian joint …

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Olmsted Is a Garden of Eden For Greenmarket Gourmets on a Budget

Source: Grub Street NY

Many, if not all, of the familiar, carefully imagined, slightly maddening tropes of the High Brooklyn (or, if you prefer, High Portland, or High Silver Lake) dining experience are on display at Olmsted, the much-acclaimed restaurant that opened several months ago in Prospect Heights, on a …

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Paowalla Marks the Return of One of New York’s Best Indian Chefs

Source: Grub Street NY

Prior to hitting the big time as the wunderkind chef of Danny Meyer’s popular Indian-themed restaurant Tabla back in the dim, distant ’90s, Floyd Cardoz made his reputation the old-fashioned way, by working up through the great kitchens of Europe and New York. But in this comfort-saturated, story-driven food era, …

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Paowalla Marks the Return of One of New York’s Best Indian Chefs

Source: Grub Street NY

Prior to hitting the big time as the wunderkind chef of Danny Meyer’s popular Indian-themed restaurant Tabla back in the dim, distant ’90s, Floyd Cardoz made his reputation the old-fashioned way, by working up through the great kitchens of Europe and New York. But in this comfort-saturated, story-driven food era, …

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Agern Serves New Nordic Cuisine That Might Not Seem So New, But It’s a Top-Notch Train-Station Refuge

Source: Grub Street NY

“I thought we were finished watching giant beetroots being carved tableside,” one of my guests whispered as we watched, with properly solemn looks on our faces, the beet-carving ceremony unfold during a recent dinner at a newish midtown restaurant called Agern. Maybe you’ve heard about the beet-carving ceremony …

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At Le Coucou, Paris’s Most Famous American Chef Cooks Classic French

Source: Grub Street NY

There are many things about Stephen Starr’s lavish new dining venture Le Coucou that will remind restaurant grandees of the glory days, before the rabble of kitchen slaves stormed the bastions of what used to be called “haute cuisine” and their world turned upside down. There is the …

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Barano Is a Grandson’s Paean to His Ischian Nonna

Source: Grub Street NY

Al Di Meglio’s latest restaurant, Barano, is named, in the grand tradition of ancient red-sauce joints everywhere, for the tiny village (on the Neapolitan island of Ischia, for the record) where his ancestors (specifically his beloved nonna) lived before coming to the New World. With its …

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Hao Noodle and Tea by Madam Zhu’s Kitchen Serves Authentic Pan-regional Fare That Captures China’s Culinary Evolution

Source: Grub Street NY

Before you taste the impressive variety of regional soups on the menu, or the subtle variations in texture of the housemade noodles, or the perfectly executed dome of shrimp fried rice, what you notice about Beijing restaurateur Zhu Rong’s first-ever restaurant in the USA is that it doesn’t really look…More »

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Nix Pushes the Vegetable-Forward Envelope

Source: Grub Street NY

Nix.

Vegetables have been at the apex of the food-fashion pyramid for several years now, so it’s only fitting that James Truman — who made a name for himself as top curator and tastemaker for the Condé Nast empire and now does more or less the same thing for the hotelier André Balazs — would develop a restaurant devoted to, well, hyperfashionable vegetables. There’s a pleasing veil of potted vines hanging over the kitchen window at Nix, which is located, conveniently, just below the Greenmarket in Union Square, and the little lamps scattered here and there around the narrow, ...

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