Tag Archives: The Underground Gourmet

Uncle Boons Sister Is a Fast-food Version of Uncle Boons

Source: Grub Street NY

“Whenever my mom visits New York from Thailand, she threatens to open a restaurant called Uncle Boons Sister and put us out of business,” says Ann Redding, co-owner of Nolita’s Uncle Boons, which she actually did name after her mother’s brother. Her mother’s joking, of course, but she’s also too …

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Maialino Vet Chris McDade Brings ‘Hot Chicken’ Milanese to Brooklyn

Source: Grub Street NY

Italy has many regions, but last we checked, Georgia wasn’t one of them. Still, chef and Decatur native Chris McDade has found common ground between the regional American cuisine of the South, where he first began cooking professionally at Atlanta’s Rathburn’s, and that of the old country, to which he …

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Danny Meyer’s Fast-Casual Martina Pizzeria Opens This Weekend in the East Village

Source: Grub Street NY

You’d have thought things couldn’t get any rosier for Nick Anderer, Danny Meyer’s Roman-food guru and former chef of Maialino and its sister pizzeria-restaurant, Marta. “I love Marta,” he says. “But a year in, I said to myself, and to Danny, ‘It’s an awesome space, but confined by a lot …

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Hendu’s Sandwich Shop at Dutch Kills Bar Makes Stupendously Good Heros

Source: Grub Street NY

Bar food keeps getting better and better, and the bars in which you find it more and more unexpected. Take, for instance, the Long Island City cocktail den Dutch Kills. That is the home of Hendu’s, a one-man sandwich shop that’s been operating out of the bar’s kitchen since …

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Meet the ‘Double Brown,’ a BLT Served Between Two Hash-Brown Patties

Source: Grub Street NY

You can’t open a restaurant these days — even a seemingly health-minded, Greenmarket-y kind of restaurant — without throwing an Instagram bone to the stunt-food mob. Case in point is Hudson Jane, a new all-day American comfort-food restaurant, wine bar, and prepared-foods takeout shop in Fort Greene, where …

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Atla Is a Mexican Restaurant Designed For How New Yorkers Eat Now

Source: Grub Street NY

“There’s no such thing as a perfect restaurant,” a dyspeptic old critic once admonished the Underground Gourmet, and, of course, she was right. So in acknowledgment of this fact, let’s start this review off by listing all the flaws and defects that prevent Enrique Olvera’s new Noho canteen, Atla, …

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Two Great New Noodle Shops Shine a Light on the Seldom-Seen Yunnanese Rice Variety

Source: Grub Street NY

New York’s noodle slurpers have long descended on the East Village block of First Avenue between 10th and 11th Streets, where any night of the week, you’ll see them pacing the sidewalk outside David Chang’s pioneering Momofuku Noodle Bar. These folks have been joined, recently, by starchy-food aficionados …

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Sara Jenkins Is Bringing Porchetta Sandwiches Back to the East Village

Source: Grub Street NY

Six months after Sara Jenkins’s Porchetta shuttered due to the usual business-down-rent-up reasons, it’s back in action. Beginning on Monday, the excellent purveyor of porchetta sandwiches will take up residence as a six-week lunchtime pop-up at Jenkins’s Porsena restaurant spinoff, Porsena Extra Bar.

All …

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At White Gold, April Bloomfield’s Butcher-Shop-Restaurant, It’s All About the Meat

Source: Grub Street NY

If you are even a halfway ambitious chef these days, it’s not enough to cook food and sell it. You must mill your own flour, grow your own herbs, churn your own butter, apply your own tattoos (well, maybe not that), and butcher your own meat. April Bloomfield is a …

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At Atoboy and Edda Bar, Two Smart Young Chefs Bring Their Food to a Wider Audience

Source: Grub Street NY

Sometimes at restaurants, as in life, the best things are free. Take, for instance, bread — not always free these days, but occasionally great. We’re also reminded of the ­attention-grabbing amuse bouche. Or the miniature sweet some restaurants give you in lieu of dessert. And then there’s the Italian joint …

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Caravan Is a Breezy New Amagansett Takeout Shop With a Locavore Focus and a Smile Connection

Source: Grub Street NY

“Farm-to-table” is one of the food industry’s biggest myths, perhaps nowhere more so than in the Hamptons, a land of rich agriculture and pricy restaurants, where very little of the homegrown (or fished) ingredients, it seems, winds up on menus. Which is why it was so refreshing to…More »

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Pi Bakerie Brings Astoria-Worthy Baklava and Spanakopita to Soho

Source: Grub Street NY


The baklava and koulouri and pretty much everything else is “totally made by hand on premises.”

Brooklyn-born Regina Katopodis has been a co-owner of Astoria’s excellent Artopolis Bakery for 11 years, but she’s always wanted to return to Manhattan, where she ran several food stores during the ’80s, to open a pastry shop. “It was my dream,” she says. “I love the energy.” Now, with the opening of Pi Bakerie, a lovely, lofty, sky-lit space that’s part counter-service café, part production facility, her dream has come to fruition (hard by the circle of hell known as Holland Tunnel traffic ...

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The Underground Gourmet: Rose Bakery Brings Brititerranean Cooking and High Style to Kips Bay

Source: Grub Street NY


Rose Bakery

If you, like the Underground ­Gourmet, are a complete fashion illiterate, a preprandial tour of the new Dover Street Market, the seven-story multibrand designer emporium that houses a branch of Paris’s Rose Bakery on its ground floor, can be a harrowing experience. Sample snippets of overheard conversation: “I’ve been wearing Prada since before you were born.” “This [black polyurethane Comme des Garçons dress shaped like a giant piece of toast] could literally double as a garment bag.” “I love it, but even Webster would need to have it [Thom Browne glen-plaid suit] let out.”

Still, one must ...

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